Have visited Perfect Spin Off Cosplay since Halloween, 1998.
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Trunks' Sword
Mirai Trunks' Sword
| Designer: |
Wayne Teh-Run-Ke-Sze |
| Conception: |
August 1997 |
| Picture Date: |
Halloween 1997 |
| Appearances: |
Halloween 1997, Anime Expo 1998, Fanime Con 1999 |
| Components: |
Sword: Thin Wood, Steel Plates, Plastic, Hot Glue, White Glue, Cardboard, Silver Paint, Clear Gloss, Paper Mache, Moldable Clay, Black Grip
Sheath: Extendable Belt, Paper Mache, Hot Glue, White Glue, Cardboard, Various Paints, Clear Gloss, Wire |
| Story: |
Trunks' Sword and Sheath came before the costume since I wanted some sort of summer project, and I thought it was cool. The sword is scaled to a Mirai Trunks that has my build and is 5'6", assuming Trunks' Sword did not change very much from the Tapion movie to his first appearance in Dragon Ball Z. Obviously not scaled to Chibi Trunks when he first gets the sword because it probably was drawn slightly smaller. Having a sword like this around would generally have people think that a Tapion costume may be down the line. *narrows eyes* |
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Trunks' Sword:
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A 5 lb balanced sword, fully balanced with comfortable grip. Length roughly 4 ft. Drafted and designed to be scale (after hours and hours of watching Dragonball Z episodes with Trunks). Complete with sheath and belt. Blade weathered for "authenticity". Perfect compliment for Future Trunks, threatening Mr. Satan or chopping Freeza in half.
Shown here is Trunks' Sword and Sheath |
Trunks' Sword's
Pet Peeve |
Being mistaken for He-Man's pathetic sword. "By the power of Grayskull!" |
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画面をクリックすると大きい写真
Q: Why create a FAQ for just the sword?
A: Well it's a cool sword! And, it's because of all the costumes and props that AGSMA has, Trunks' Sword gets the most inquiries. Second would be Asuka's headsets if you were all wondering.
Q: Why didn't you make this FAQ sooner?
A: Because I'm lazy.
Q: What if there's a question I have the FAQ doesn't answer?
A: Take it to the message board located at (http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/agsma).
Q: Is Trunks' Sword for sale?
A: No.
Q: Is Trunks costume (Mirai or Super Saiyan) for sale?
A: No.
Q: Where is Trunks' Sword right now?
A: In my bedroom.
Q: How long did Trunks' Sword take to make?
A: Looking at the brief introduction above, assuming Halloween is in October, subtract August. Three months.
Q: Can you make me a Trunks' Sword exactly like the one you have?
A: No, the one pictured is created of unique materials, many of which I will have a difficult time collecting again, not to mention it took three months to make.
Q: Can you make me a Trunks' Sword sort of like the one you have?
A: Yes I can.
Q: Will you make me a Trunks's Sword sort of like the one you have? And how much will it cost?
A: Right now I don't have any plans of making replicas of that sword and if I did, I might get sentimentally attached to it and not want to sell it. So I have no ideas about the cost at this time.
Q: Will you make me a Trunks costume (Mirai or Super Saiyan)?
A: Right now I just don't have the time.
Q: Can you tell me how I can make my own Trunks' Sword then?
A: Absolutely. That is one of the reasons why this FAQ was created.
Q: Why aren't there step by step pictures for this FAQ, as there are for some of the Final Fantasy weapons and Strider's sword?
A: Simply because this sword was created in 1997, and I hadn't thought of taking in-production shots of it at that time
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Q: What are the stats on the sword?
A: Dimensions:
Sheathed Length: 110 cm
Unsheathed Length: 105 cm
Sheath Length: 82.5 cm
Strap Length: Adjustable 57.5 - 75 cm
Blade Length: 77.5 cm
Blade Width: 55 mm
Blade Thickness: 20 mm
Hilt Length: 22 cm
Hilt Width: 3-6 cm
Hilt Thickness: 2 cm
Handle Length: 26 cm
Handle Width: 4 cm
Approximate Weight: 5 lb
Q: If I made my sword conform to those measurements, will that be okay?
A: If you're 5'6" with a thin to moderate build yes. The scale is important if you want to be accurate with your sword since the handle and hilt should show up past your shoulder and part of the sheath should peek out the side if you're wearing the sheathed sword correctly. But if you were 6 foot, this sword would look too short, and conversely if you were 5 foot, the sword would look like a javelin. However, if accuracy does not concern you, those measurements should be fine.
Q: What makes Trunks' Sword different from most other swords you've built?
A: Trunks' Sword is a broadsword type of sword, while the others are primarily katana type. The exception is Strider's Cypher which is *shrug* whatever type. Trunks' Sword contains metal on the inside, and not the outside like the katana.
Q: How would you ideally make Trunks' Sword?
A: If I had no budget, and plenty of free time and resources, I'd have Trunks' Sword made at a blacksmiths. Oh but you'd get that sword peacebonded because it's too real and metal. Then I'd go for a resin cast or plastic molded version of the sword.
Q: Should I make the sword first, or the sheath?
A: Sword. If you start off with the sheath, your sword may end up too small.
Guidelines on how to make your very own Trunks Sword in easy steps. (Easy if you have excellent wood working skills and materials)
These are merely guidelines (not a complete walk through), and here for informational purposes only. You are of course encouraged to try and invent ways on your own to make the sword.
We are not responsible for any injuries or problems that may arise when trying to construct this sword. Always, always use precaution when working with dangerous equipment and always use protection like goggles and the like.
1. Pick a wooden dowel or PVC size for the handle that is slightly smaller than your grip (because you will need to put grip on it and it will increase the size) and determine the length of the handle you want (long enough to make it a two handed sword). Cut the dowel for about an inch more than desired length because the end is rounded.
2. Determine how long the blade will be, and how wide/thick you want it to be. Cut the blade about 6-8 inches too long, because you will want to put the hilt over it and bury the rest into the handle. If you cut the blade exactly the length it's supposed to be, you will have an inherent weak point at the juncture of the handle/blade and chances are it will break easily at that point. Mark off the difference between the wood you will use for the actual blade vs. the "extra part". Sand/Trim down the extra part of blade so that it will either fit within the PVC, or (if you cut a slot in the wood dowel) fit into that slot. If you chose the PVC route, you will likely need extra wood to put in so the entire space within the PVC is filled, and not just a slot.
3. Prepare a hilt by getting a block of wood that is easy to drill, and design the diamond type shape. Do not worry about the round things at the either end of the hilt at this time. Just work on the flat portion. You will need to find the direct center of this piece. Drill/Cut out a piece that is the same size as the slot/hole in your handle as you will slide this on the extra part of the blade before putting it in the handle.
4. Assuming the three major pieces of your sword can fit together now you need to sand down the blade to make it beveled and have a tip. You will need a good finish so it will end up glossy and when you paint it, that the grain of the wood will not show through. You may need to coat the blade with something so you don't see the wood grain. Use a shiny metallic silver spray paint to make the wood look like metal.
5. Sand down the hilt (and handle if it's wood) so those are smooth as well. You don't want splinters.
6. Attach the hilt, and handle to the blade. If everything fits will, go ahead and secure it with nails/glue etc. You may find that the blade is too heavy for the handle and you may need to put in some metal weights or nails in the handle to balance the sword out.
7. Add the rounded edges to the end of the handle and sides of the hilt with good strong modeling clay that won't break easily. After this is done, sand the handle and hilt again with the dried clay to ensure everything is smooth. Then you can coat and paint these areas as well.
8. The last thing would be to wrap the grip around the handle. After everything is painted and finished of course.
9. Now you have a sword, but no sheath! Measure the dimensions of the sheath depending on your blade dimensions. Make sure to allow for the thickness as well otherwise your sheath will not fit like a shrunken pair of blue jeans. You can use chicken wire as a frame, and paper mache over it to create the sheath, but make sure there is some type of smooth lining on the inside or else your sword blade will get scratched and damaged from the chicken wire.
10. While you are adding on the paper mache to the sheath, make sure you leave allowances for a place to attach the belt. If you can attach the belt to the inner structure of the sheath, it will have more stability than if you attached it superficially. Of course, during the process of paper mache, you'll need to add in all the decorations, and paint accordingly, since there are multiple colors to the sheath.
Return to Perfect Spin Off Cosplay Index
You can reach Wayne Teh-Run-Ke-Sze by:
メール: (for Japanese patrons) waynekaa@hotmail.com
E-mail: (via AGSMA coordinator) agsma@acparadise.com
AOL Instant Messenger ID: TrunksWICQ: 26776365
For questions about costumes, please use the Message Board
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Wayne "Teh-Run-Ke-Sze" Perfect Spin Off Cosplay (PSOC) ｩ.
Anything Goes School of Masquerade Arts (AGSMA) ｩ.
All content, including pictures, on this page (unless otherwise noted) is copyright to PSOC or AGSMA, and cannot be used without prior permission.
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